English: There, here and over there. Basically, in a sense, to mean restless. A collection of thoughts, musings and ramblings...

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Coming back 'Home'

8.00 a.m., and I was already in the arrivals hall of the Labuan International Airport. I wasn't supposed to be here this early, but MASwings cancelled the later flight at 9a.m. giving me a choice of either an earlier flight or a much later flight. A stark reminder again of the numerous cancelled flights I have endured during my entire tenure at Labuan.

When I first moved to Labuan, airfares had been so cheap that I could fly back home twice a month. Only RM70 for a one way flight on their little propeller Fokker planes.

Then the whole MAS fiasco happened, bearing millions of losses. As a result, airfares became ridiculously expensive, sometimes charging as high as RM200++ just for a one way flight.And to make things worse, there were no other airline service providers offering the same route, save for Airasia, that cancelled their LBN-BKK-LBN flights within a mere few months of operations.

The only other option to get on and off the island was by 1) the nausea-inducing two and half hours ride in a small cramped ferry all the way to Kota Kinabalu; 2) via 30 mins of hurtling and bouncing on speedboats, appropriately dubbed the 'flying coffins' given it's small space and low roofs, (plus the numerous unplanned incidents such as steering wheels coming off mid-journey) to Menumbok Jetty; or 3) via the strangely renovated big car ferry (2nd hand from China!) that is slightly safer, but takes over 2 hours to arrive at Menumbok Jetty, after which another two and half hours drive or ride by bus is in order to get to Kota Kinabalu.

I say it's strangely renovated because of the seats inside that seem to be collected from a number of different vendors, the gloomy and rather filthy interior, and extremely cold air-conditioning settings. Aside from that, the ferry is often inundated by a number of problems, such as propellers falling off into the deep blue sea, and thus causing ferry services to be suspended for long periods of time, much to the agitation of the locals who wish to drive out to mainland Sabah.

Not exactly attractive options, and I make no effort to disguise my absolute disgust at the services that are available for the residents of Labuan. I paint no pretty pictures, just the sad truth. The whole ferry topic has been an intensely argued topic with certain ferry operators (and ministers!) pretending not to even know what the word 'monopoly' means. Things have been slightly better lately with the entrance of another ferry operator (with problems at the start up), but nothing lasts forever it seems. Especially not here.


So, rather than having to face 1), 2) and 3) above, I decided to splurge and enjoy a much more comfortable trip to Labuan this time, via plane. And enjoy the new facilities and sights of the now completed KKIA.

I already made an appointment at the lawyer's office at 2pm, so a later flight is totally out of the question. So I drag myself out of bed at 5.45am that morning, in a bid to arrive at the airport within good time.

But the question now is... what do I do with the 6 hours left until my appointment? And where shall I stay?

Decided: stay at the centre of town, so that a car is not needed to get around. And I already have in mind a place to stay - Ambassador Hotel 2, a small hotel that I've just passed by a couple of times the last few times I've been back, and looks pretty decent.

The hotel at the centre of town is just a mere 2-3km away from the airport, but it costs RM12.50. Taxis are mainly very old models of Toyota built in the late 80s and painted all white with mint green stripes on the side.

"Sorry Miss, we can only check you in at around 12pm", the receptionist glanced at me, the strange woman wearing a ripped (artistically, I might add) yellow tee. He must be thinking 'wth...?!'

Undaunted, I cheerily asked if I could just leave my bag at the counter, which he accepted, and off I was on my merry way. At 8.15 in the morning...

Can't sit at a coffee shop and have breakfast, as it was the fasting month. What to do, what to do.....

Ahh... museum!

The museum is located just a stone's throw away from behind the building where the hotel was located. The streets were filled with blue canopies, all ready for the Ramadan bazaar happening every single day starting the earliest at 2pm.



The abandoned Labuan hotel towered gloomily overhead, memories of an era long passed.  I often try to imagine the hotel back in its hey-day - I was old enough to remember going there once upon a time with my parents, who wanted to listen some karaoke. Wonder what kind of scene will greet us should we decide to push open the glass entrance doors one day. Perfect scene for some Halloween party.


The doors of the museum were shut, a little too early to be inviting in guests. Noting that the tourism office next door was open, I decided to make a visit and pick up a few brochures. Perhaps a copy of the Labuan Food Trail that I saw my friend bringing around during my last visit, but there were none.

I sat there for a while, seeking solace from the sun, which burns hot even in the morning. After all, I was a 'tourist', and the place was free for people coming to seek information. Looking through the brochures, I found out that the museum only opens at 9a.m.








Seeing that there's still time before the museum opens, I decided to cross the road towards the Labuan Square which was built in 1990 to commemorate the island of Labuan being made Federal Territory in 1984.

It claims to be "the popular spot for major events and stage performances with its open air stage that has walk-up steps at the front and impressive cascading waterfalls at the back" according the description inscribed on a slab of marble.

The days of glory have ended, it's obvious to see.


I'm sorry to say that not much of an effort has been made to restore or maintain this memorable historic site. The place was in a state of disarray, with stagnant water in an otherwise beautiful fountain breeds mosquito larvae, and broken pieces of wood plus rubbish of all sorts and graffiti can be found on the steps leading downstairs to what I presume to be a storeroom.

Returning back to the museum, I noted that it is at last open. Refreshing gusts of wind from the air-conditioning units greeted me as I walked through the open doors and signed my name in the guestbook.


I found the museum to be highly informative and  great for people who want an in-depth knowledge on the histories of Labuan. Some of the areas seemed a little too dim for reading, but I enjoyed the artifacts that they have brought in, especially the old money and stamps from the British and Japanese invasions. There were also pictures of flags from various eras, and a copy of the Malaysia Agreement. There's also the chair and table and replica of the Labuan Agreement to commemorate the day that Labuan was handed over to the Federal government.

Entry price: Free of charge!

Among interesting snippets of information found:

1775: Survivors of an attack on the British East India Company factory on Balambangan Island took refuge on Labuan 

18 September 1846: Sultan of Brunei signed treaty and handed over Labuan to the British. 6 days later, on Christmas Eve, the Union Jack was hoisted up at Ramsay Point, to confirm Labuan as a British Colony.

Statistics of Labuan Population 1921 - 1991

1921 - 5,908
1931 - 7,507
1941 - 8,963
1951 - 8,784
1960 - 14,904
1970 - 17,189
1980 - 26,413
1991 - 54,811

Labuan population based on ethnic groups in 2000
Malays - 28,974
Kadazan Dusun - 4,884
Bajau - 4,106
Murut - 419
Chinese - 9,484
Indian - 650
Others - 1,889
Non-Malaysian citizens - 16,150

Mining in Tanjung Kubong, Labuan which began in 1847, was the first in Malaysia

Oil was discovered in Labuan in 1852

The railway stretching nine and three quarter of miles long was built in 1981, connected Tanjung Kubong to Victoria, was among the first railway lines in Malaysia, and the first in Borneo.

Labuan became the 2nd territory after Sarawak to issue its own postal stamp in May 1879.

Labuan achieve independence from the British under Sabah on 31st August 1963


On 16th April 1984, Labuan was signed over to the Federal government under the Labuan Agreement

In 1990, Labuan became an offshore financial centre.
















I have deep-rooted family connections in Labuan, thus my interest in their affairs( read my blogs on Thoughts of Labuan and Labuan). While most of the family no longer lives on the island, the feeling of personal connection lingers on.

After the visit to the museum, decided to walk over to the Financial Park to find a bank and other things since I still had plenty of time. One of the first things I saw there was a coffee machine! Drinks at RM1 each. We don't even have this in KK!!

Found a whole slew of massage chairs all around the complex, so I sat on one and tried to get it going. Not functioning, hmmm... then a friendly local came and assisted me in switching it on, him (and a couple of other people) too seemingly interested in the chairs when I sat down. I decided to spoil myself and get a full 30 mins massage for RM10, almost dozing off in the process.








15 mins before 12pm, I decided that it was enough time to walk back to the hotel and try to check-in again. Labuan is a pretty walkable place, in spite of the heat. There are plenty of unobstructed walkways for pedestrians, most of them either covered or underneath some shade. There's also a lighted zebra-crossing for pedestrians to pass, and I found the motorists are generally very well behaved and disciplined when it comes to red-lights. As it is also quite a small town, everything seems to be within walking distance, or at least reasonably so. I spent a lot of time those 2 days walking around quite comfortably, unlike back home.




I arrived at the hotel, and they have a room for me! A Queen Superior room at RM108, but with the deposit I have to pay RM150. I wanted a single room, but I'm not going to wait, so I took it.

Proud. This would be the first time ever that I booked myself into a hotel alone, apart from my travelling days outside of Malaysia. Was very curious (and fearful) to see how good the room was.

They gave me a ground floor room, and down a long corridor with white washed walls I went. Obviously the hotel had just been renovated, judging by the boxes of tiles lining the sides of the corridor.

I switched on the light in the room, and was greeted by the sight of a big white bed and 4 fluffy pillows, a television set, fridge, cupboard, a small chair and coffee table. The bathroom too was very nice and clean and tasteful. Aside from the cigarette smells, I was very very pleased with my choice of accommodation for the night. It was also in a strategic location:- right smack in the middle of town, in a less busy street, close to everything, a hairdresser just a few doors down (whose services I used) and a taxi stand nearby.

Rested for a bit, and it was soon time to go to the lawyer's office in Lazenda Shophouse, again just a short distance away, and in the same area where my first job as an auditor in Labuan was. After signing the necessary paperwork, I decided to buy some pastries from one of the more famous coffee shops in Labuan - Hup Juan. For a little over RM3, I bought a chicken curry puff and an egg tart. It would have tasted really great piping hot, but as it was the fasting month, I had no choice but to wait.




The rest of the day was spent walking around town while waiting for the time for my good friend Peny to pick me up so we can have dinner / breaking of fast.


First stop was the D'One Mart, a 24-hour supermarket. I still remember many years back, it used to be just a small shop that was famous for selling Gardenia bread products, including cake items such as Twiggys, that can be found only in West Malaysia. Guess that business was so good that the shop has expanded into a large supermarket that can rival the other big (and long-established) supermarkets such as Milimewa, Giant and Utama Jaya.










Next, was finding the shop where I last found a large bottle of Nutella for a reasonable price. It was also very tempting to buy more than what I came for, but I reminded myself that however cheap things are, they still cost money. And I was on a tight budget.





Yay!! My favourite :-p







It seems that Starbucks has arrived in Labuan at last! In the form of bottled coffee, not the cafe. Tempting











Dr Pepper has arrived on the shores of Labuan as well.






More pics.....


Don't believe we have a coin-operated laundromat in KK either?


















I was wondering what happened to the library at Labuan Corporation, when I found it. Now in the formerly abandoned Wisma Oceanic, where lots of offices used to be located before the Financial Park was built.














 Dinner was at Black and Gold Cafe. Quite reasonable portion for RM20.
































Another popular food outlet in Labuan - Island Garden, an open air hawker stall serving Chinese and Western dishes











Labuan town seems to have ample spaces for public use. Park benches like these can be found in many places, and in good condition!












Strangling figs seem to be taking root everywhere in this island. Even on the smallest of trees.











Seeing I had a few hours left, and too tired to walk... I decided to do my hair at a local salon, as I was going to attend some expensive dinner at a 5-star resort on the same night, in aid of sun bears.

As I wasn't too vain either, I decided to risk having my hair reshaped at cut at Gaya salon, just next to Ambassador Hotel 2. That was the first time in a very long time that anyone gushed over my natural curls. Though I was trying hard not to be alarmed by the large chunks of hair flying past me as the hairdresser enthusiasticly chopped off my hair to give it 'more layers' and look 'sexy'.


The ending result for RM57?



They used only very good products, I noted.















All too soon it was time for me to leave Labuan again. If I had more time, and a means of transport, then I'd definitely explore more. Labuan is a very cheap place to visit, and plenty of places do not charge an entry fee at all, for example the Labuan Aquarium. But then, with no fee, we will have to be contented with places that have not been maintained very well.

Other places I love in Labuan:-

1. Botanical Gardens - where the remains of the bombed Government House can be found. A great place to go for an evening run, but I love the lakes that are there. I used to know every route through the gardens as I spent a lot of time there, though people tell me it's haunted. There is also a water park, or used to be, as it is now run down. It is located on the road where the old airport terminal used to be. Entrance is free.

2. Japanese Peace park - definitely a car required, as it is located in Layang-Layangan, a distance away from town. It was also the location where the Japanese army surrendered. It is again one of those places forgotten by time and crumbling away. But I love it there, and I used to spend many weekends at one of the stalls nearby selling the best barbecue chicken wings and satay with ketupat and peanut sauce ever! Salivating now...

3. Pancur Hitam - also requiring a car for a beach gathering. Lots of barbecue pits you can use here free of charge, and the place is kept really clean. Beaches are still so wild you can spot a few hermit crabs here and there. Not advisable to swim though.

Must haves:-
1. Labuan makes its own bottled drinks - 5-Star which bottles drinking water and Skyblue, which makes it's own drinks such as cola, ice cream soda and other flavoured drinks. Used to be that they made aerated drinks, but I couldn't find any anymore, just cordial types. My mum used to share her fond memories of those glass bottled aerated drinks that they used to have every Hari Raya, which they called 'lemned' or actually 'lemonade'.

2. Lots of duty-free imported chocolates! Buy from the shops in town, not at airports or ferry terminals as they will cost far more. Where else can you find Danish, Swiss or Belgian choccies at reasonable prices?

3. Alcohol is also duty-free. I had a German friend who came and said the prices were way cheaper than back home.

4. For Sabahans having a hankering for snacks or breads that you can find in KL, they have Gardenia and High 5 here ;-)

Good (and cheap) Eats:-

1. Blueberries Cafe on 1st Floor, Financial Park. Halal. Very cheap and delicious. You can get bubble tea and a yummy piece of homemade chocolate cake for very low prices. Very popular during lunch hour as they have economy mixed rice on offer.

2. I absolutely love the nasi lemak at the Labuan Watersports Centre. I used to tapau every few mornings on my way to work.

3. Yummy Chicken? (Gosh, I can't remember the name!) - I love the tomyam mee, chicken rice is not bad either.

4. Choice - Indian food. Briyani, my favourite ;-) and mango lassi.

5. If you're looking to impress someone on a date, there's always Fratini's. The only Italian restaurant (I think?) on the island.

Oh, I can probably go on and on and add on more to my list as I think about it. But I better stop. I guess it is after all because 4 years of my life was spent on this island that I fondly think of as my second home.

" I'll be back soon!" was my only thought as I soared over the town on my flight home.

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